"Suddenly, Africa is Everywhere"

The New York Times recently had an article entitled, "Designing to an Afro Beat" (Ruth La Ferla, December 30th, 2009). My initial response to this title was "wow! the New York Times is featuring African fashion designers!" Upon reading the article, I quickly realized that this is the epitome of exotification and appropriation. As a Hampshire student, I realize that these words can be overused and misused (or may sound totally pretentious or obscure), but hear me out:

As for fashion, I've seen this trend emerging over the last year or so. American Apparel serves as a great example. (see image to the left). This print is available for numerous items titled either "White Black Afrika" or "Red Black Afrika." Perhaps the "Afrika" print issue is best described by freelance writer Juniper Russo Tarascio when she says,

"To fully understand the implications of racism that some say are rife in the line of clothing, it's necessary to look at the stereotypes that some say are being associated with Africa. It is a common myth within mainstream America that Africa--a continent composed of over fifty culturally independent, sovereign nations--is a single area that can be readily lumped into a monolithic categorization. Not all of Africa has zebras, and not all of Africa is tribal. Reducing "Afrika" to a single, stereotyped concept tends to further dehumanize all the people who are native to the continent. Considering all of Africa to share a culture may well be considered degrading. To dress a model in a fake kimono and call the line "Asia" would be no less offensive. This might be seen as a mechanism for Americans to view Africa as primitive and exotic: an oversimplification of an entire continent of culture and history for the sake of profit."
(see article posted)

The New York Times article says all of this explicitly without much consciousness that there are major issues with making money off of stereotyping. It evokes quaintness of a "mystic," far-off land full of poor and savage peoples.

"Now another Afrocentric wind is rising. “Its beauty is in having crossed all sorts of racial barriers,” said Malcolm Harris, the creative director of Unvogue, a popular fashion-focused Webzine. “It doesn’t matter who you are or where you’re from. People are incorporating bits and pieces into their wardrobes and their lives.

That may be because in the popular imagination, African jungles, deserts and plains retain a near-mystical allure, which the reality of the continent’s political turmoil and poverty have never entirely dispelled."

I get that here in the U.S. we really like things. I'm sure some would argue that this is a great opportunity to open free trade with African countries that produce items like bangles and beads and perhaps those people are right. Why not make the market for the goods? My concern is that, like the American Apparel "Afrika" line, the market is host to clothes not produced or designed in Africa that are sold on the premise of stereotypes and the exotic other.

More to come. Comment. Read the links.

Julia

*I am yet to see Avatar so I don't know how much I can say about it. I'll save that one to tackle at a later point.